Why sump pits matter
A sump pit is, by design, an opening in your foundation connecting to the soil and gravel beneath it. Standard lids are built to manage water, not gas — many aren’t airtight at all. That makes the sump pit one of the widest-open paths radon has into a house, often a bigger factor than any crack in the slab.
A radon-rated sump lid is gasketed and bolted down, with a fitting for the pump’s discharge line and a port that ties into a mitigation system’s suction point. Swapping a standard lid for a sealed one is frequently the single biggest factor in whether a mitigation system performs as designed.
What's included
- Pump install or service — New sump pump installation, or service and replacement on an existing pump — including pumps we didn’t originally install.
- Radon-rated sealed lid — Gasketed, bolted-down lids that stop the pit from acting as an open path for soil gas.
- Tie-in to a mitigation system — When paired with a mitigation system, the sump pit often becomes the suction point itself.
Signs your sump pit needs attention
- The lid is a simple plastic cover with no gasket or bolts
- You can feel airflow or smell musty soil air near the pit
- A radon test came back high and you have an unsealed sump pit in the lowest level
- The pump itself is old, noisy, or has needed manual intervention recently
Common questions
Do I need a new pump if I just want the pit sealed?
No — a sealed lid can usually be fitted to an existing pump setup if the pump itself is working fine.
Can you service a pump you didn’t install?
Yes, including sealing an existing pit as a standalone job or as part of a full mitigation system.
How do I know the seal is still doing its job?
A properly sealed lid stays bolted down with no gaps you can feel air through. If a follow-up radon test still comes back high after sealing, the pit usually isn’t the only entry point — worth pairing with a full mitigation system.
Got an unsealed sump pit?
Get a quote on a sealed lid, a new pump, or both.